First holiday in three years saw us back in Hvar and Korcula, last in Hvar in 2009, Korcula 2004. Would have liked to have gone back to Istria but flights didn't permit. But never a hardship to go to any area of Croatia, especially the islands which are really a world apart from the mainland. Here is an up to date state of play on the beaches we went to.

We only went to Jerolim island off Hvar Town, as Stipanska the next one along, due to the Carpe Diem beach bar opened on it, is now more firmly textile according to fellow beachgoers. (The one time we went there years ago the beach was lousy.) The same seems to apply to the furthest, Palmizana. Jerolim is still happily nude and you can still walk anywhere you wish on the island, where there is lovely woodland as well as interesting rocky beaches on most sides. But because of the spankingly screamingly new swanky bar and restaurant overlooking the jetty called Amo Beach which has replaced the derelict bombsite of the old grilll restaurant there before, expect more beachwear fans on the main beaches and even on the smaller coves. Don't expect to use the loungers provided by Amo, not that you'd want to anyway. And if you go for a drink or meal a cover is required. It's nice to do at least once...it's a beautiful outlook. The ratio in June was edging to 50/50 as it got later in the month which unfortunately would get worse in high season. It is the younger ones who attracted by the new set up that won't strip in the main,-some do- though there was 6 British girls who after some giggling went topless and seemed very relaxed by the second day. This was on the main pebble stretch near the second watering hole, a more laid back and cheaper option (cover still required) with funny dinosaur sculptures made of driftwood which hired out cheaper plastic loungers and brollies at about £2.50 a day each. We went on this beach the last few days as it was too hot to do without a brolly on our preferred rocky cove. I think it was called Kordovan beach bar. Nice big sign at the entrance. 'Nudists welcome since 1896'. If you say so!

The swimming is excellent and no urchins. Taxi boats run frequently from the town, take 15 mins and cost about £3 return. We got a ticket about half the time...an amusing boat is Ricky's because of his little dog called Jerry after the island. One day back in the town, we'd got off, Jerry misjudged his flying leap onto the quay side and there was a frantic scrabbling of paws going backwards and all our faces aghast at the prospect of one of us having to go dressed into the harbour to rescue the stupid dog. Thankfully Ricky got him!

Hvar Town is the most fashionable resort in Croatia and the restaurants and nightlife are top class. Go into a private apartment and you won't go wrong, it is still very very good value. Hvar attracts a very diverse crowd of yachties, backpackers, well heeled older travellers and all different nationalities, so it is not an 'enclave' of any one unlike Istria. Lots of Aussies, but then they are among the few not in a slump.

Korcula is quite different, more 'packagy' and more British. (We went only to go to Mljet and to finally see the Moreska dance.) But there are options. The three we tried in order were Stupa, Badija, and Lenga at Lumbarda. Stupa island is about £4.50 from the marina side of the town, about 20mins. Basically it is one disappointing pebble stretch in front of the Konoba by the jetty and lousy un flat rocks round the side. Got ONE flat rock. Nobody else stripping there, BUT it was probably the best meal of the entire trip with prawns to die for so it's almost worth going for that alone. Very popular with boats for lunch. Badija island was the only one we had visited before and I remembered why I didn't like it, the beach the other side of the island from the jetty is north facing so you move your towels along about three times in the afternoon which is damn annoying. The beach is not the cleanest either, with a lot of bottle tops. Unusual for this country which is almost fanatical on litter. The boat is about £3.50 and it's 15 mins but you can add on 20 mins walking time. The only eating and drinking is right back at the jetty. The best of an uninspiring bunch was Lenga. There are frequent buses to Lumbarda, which is the main resort village 15 mins from Korcula town for about £2. They make big play of the sandy beaches, probably the biggest, Przina is good but not our territory unfortunately. You walk about half an hour from the village centre round the marina side past a small sand beach Bilin Zal, and right at the end is a bit of a scramble over rocks. But if you can get one of the few pebble stretches you are in clover. It's a pull back to the restaurant at the main beach so self reliance is necessary. The swimming is wonderful, the best water of the trip.

However don't expect to go for two weeks in Korcula and eat well. The restaurants in town are lousy in the main. One good one, Mareta. The town is delightful, but you've seen it in an hour. Whereas Hvar does have a lot of ebb and flow to keep you amused, also the town really is beautiful, especially the back alleys with gorgeous lanterns at night. What did make the Korcula segment for us was striking gold on the apartment we got on arrival, with a private balcony with a view of the town and harbour to die for and which the owner mentioned without any prompting 'you can go naked on.' How did he know! Anyway, hardly saw the town by daylight as too mesmerized for 3 hours every evening nakedly watching the boats with drink(s). Cost of both apartments with kitchen, Hvar one with tv? Around £26 a night for 2.

As for Mljet, went back after 8 years on a day trip, to get photos as well as my camera blew up on the last time. A staggeringly beautiful place, a bit like Jurassic Park without the dinos or looming from the sea like it did, Skull Island out of King Kong. Once you've done the boat trip to the monastery island on the big lake there's plenty of scope on the little lake to find a suitable spot away from the hordes for the afternoon. Quite a few like minds around in various coves. Swimming warmer than the sea and quite glorious. Around the corner from us, the lake looked like a tropical lagoon.

The Croatians as always very friendly, eager to talk, (all we spoke to without exception hopping mad at minority vote to join the EU Titanic) although almost exasperatingly laid back at times, (on the islands especially they make the Greeks look hives of activity!) If you change any travellers cheques prepare to marvel at a bureaucratic system that takes 20 minutes, needs multiple signings, and to be happily shunted from one counter to another. But it's one of the last refuges of sense, cleanliness and order in Europe as well as being massively easygoing for naturists and lager at 50p a bottle. Until....well, go ASAP. ::)