So after more than 20 years, a route established back into Pula from Yorkshire, and 6 years since we were last in Istria, back into the land of German motorhomes, rocks, and Istrian sausages. Of the edible variety. One thing that could be predicted with deadly certainty was that Pula airport would not have increased in size at all, and that a taxi driver would also predictably try to rook you into going all the way to Rovinj with him, rather than taking you to Pula bus station, by protesting that the bus would cost twice as much as it actually does. Rovinj is as beautiful, bewitching, atmospheric and clean as ever, if you see a sweet paper, it is grounds for objection to the tourist office. With the addition of two 5 star hotels which has the usual insinuations of backhanders/Russia/yoyoeuroland/um/ it is the resort of choice and unless you are in an apartment out of season, expect to pay through the nose. As it is, our digs were perfectly superb at £30 a night, even with BBC World on the SAT TV which got promptly switched off. Valalta was where we spent the bulk of the time interspersed with one day out driving to Grozjnan, Motovun and Hum, (fabulous, after I got the hang of the gears, just some crazee drivers with Pula number plates who make a sport of overtaking on blind bends) with 4 nights in between on Rab before returning to Rovinj. Valalta is beyond superlatives in facilities, immaculate in every way, stunning flowers, and despite the addition of inflatables off the main beach (ugh) still by far the best place to go to from Rovinj to spend the day. Bus leaves from the bus station, at 9.15 and returns at 6.10, giving you most of the day there. About £2.70 return on the bus and a further £3.60 admission. There is also one later at 10.10, if you stay on and enjoy some evening entertainment. We did once, at the BBQ night with live music which was fun of the Engelbert variety, and rather amusing to watch the kiddie disco beforehand as a lot of German europop has not made it to these shores..and there's a good reason why. Spent most of the days on the shoreline by the Cococabana bar and Uvala swim up bar, which was quieter and water cleaner, but it can be said, that water around there is not the cleanest in Croatia by a long mark. By the way, the fish picnic was as indescribable as always, You Had To Be There, I realise that trying to explain a boatload of naked people doing the Birdie Song to an accordion is impossible, so I won't. Also singing Roll out the Barrel with a certain nationality sent us 7 Brits on board into paroxysms of apoplexy, especially as I muttered 'watch it, they'll have us invading Poland next.'

The water off Red Island is certainly better, and spent one afternoon there after a tedious to say the least three hour bus journey back from Rijeka on a bus which saw it's heyday under Tito and hasn't had springs replaced since. The nice old wooden boat that used to take you there has gone, replaced by a mini catamaran costing twice as much. Thanks a bunch. Though it is nice to report that the trees on the island are now growing back, after the storm of 2002, however, the facilities at Valalta tends to spoil your previously held love of rustic rocks and one shower. But great swimming.

With Peng gone, no longer the Brit numbers at Valalta that there was by a long way. What of Rab? Well, if you think Istria is German, this is German writ large, Suha Punta where Kandalora beach is, totally so. You get the taxi boat from the town and 20 minutes deposits you right on the beach. It is a truly wonderful set up, restaurant where some dress is required (menu board in German) beach bar on main beach, no dress required, plentiful showers, swimming fabulous, and large fish who will come right to the surface to get bread. There are 3 main sections, plus any number of smaller coves, the £1.50 or so fee to enter the beach you pay on the boat, else there is a man either side of the main beach path to collect money if you are in the complex on the peninsula. There is a lovely paved open walk one way, and more forested to the other. Perfectly idyllic, and it has to be said, we were getting Guten Morgan on the second day, so the regulars had decided we were harmless. Probably the first Brits there since Edward 8th. Hiring a lounger is essential, as the stones are large. Rab Town is also quite lovely, very unspoilt. The islands are where I prefer to be it has to be said. Rovinj on the second week, was getting too busy for me although the atmosphere was magical. As always, Croatia comes well recommended, prices are (still) reasonable, locals friendly, immaculate surroundings, no English pubs (OK, one Irish one in Rovinj but that had good music) and lager is still 50p a bottle. Will there be changes after July 1st? Well, I hope not.