Having enjoyed Vis so much, it was a no-brainer - back to Croatia for the second year running. Once again tied to late August, we were expecting crowds so chose to stay at the small town of Jelsa on the north coast. Rumours of having to wait to be seated at restaurants were unfounded, and while it was true that anywhere resembling a beach was pretty much packed, it wasn't bad at all elsewhere, especially if you made the effort to walk a couple of hundred yards extra. There's plenty of sunbathing rock for everyone on Hvar.
Anxious times as our flight was half an hour late, we made it to the Jadrolina ticket office at Split with ten minutes to spare. Jostled my way to the front to collect tickets and we were away on the only direct ferry of the day. The chap in front of me bought the last ticket, so lucky we'd pre-booked.
First impressions - it's so green, and also so blue and the sea is crystal clear and there's so much rock. The island itself has so many twists and turns on its coastline there's so much fun in exploring, always make the effort to see what's round the corner, or to quote Kipling :
"Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges -- something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and wating for you. Go!"
I'm an early riser. My wife and daughter aren't so I was out by 7am the next morning for a naked swim in a flat calm sea just a short walk from base. I was hesitant, there's a lady swimming out there, best wait til she's gone. Ah, she's naked too so we're off to a good start.
I had use of a bike, fifteen minutes pleasant cycle along the coast road took me to Vrboska. Another five minutes to the Glavica peninsula - plenty of opportunities for naturism here - the FKK Kamp Nudist on the north side meant the rocks in the vicinity were well populated with naked families, couples and singles (as with Vis last year, single men and single women pretty much like for like numbers-wise). I felt comfortable enough leaving my bike in the car park, undressing and walking naked westwards along the coast for a mile or so - probably a 50:50 mix of naturists / textiles. Nearer 90:10 by Kamp Nudist.
To escape the crowds completely, head for Stari Grad and on to the village of Rudine. Keep going north west onto the Kabal peninsula and explore the many inlets, some with tiny beaches, some without.
£45 for a days hire of a motor boat was excellent value and a great chance to explore the coast either side of Jelsa . The highlight being a trip to the tiny island of Zecevo, also naturist friendly. Go out of season and it's possible you could have the island to yourself. Other prices, cheap especially if you're used to France and UK. Bike hire £5 a day, litre of wine £8.50, pizza/pasta/kebab/chicken etc £5 - £6, Steak £12, beer £1.50, espresso 80p, fresh juice £2.
Highlights - Jelsa town, clear blue sea, ubiquitous tolerance of nudity, friendly people, Biserka (our lovely host), the single lane tunnel at Pitve, radler lemon-beer.
Regrets - Didn't get to Jerolim, we were in Hvar town on a Sunday and it was heaving. Steady stream of taxi boats plus daughter having a bad day meant we didn't stay too long. Didn't bring a hammock - so many pine trees so close to the sea ! Didn't get to explore inland enough, or the scary road to Sucuraj.
Do bring - water shoes unless you have soles like leather. Sunglasses - the white limestone can be dazzling at times. Sturdy shoes - the rock can vary immensely from smooth and flat to unbelievably rough and spiky.
Don't bring - too many clothes...
Ooh - did I mention we came back on a Seaplane ? 😀
First reactions before finally bed:
Wise to stay in Jelsa. 😮
Wish we could have got to Jelsa this year. :-
Thought you'd be OK re crowds, the clubbers don't know it's there.
Accurate to a very painful T on the island! :'(
Karlovacko radler limun beer, the greatest drink ever invented for a beach. 8)
Aren't the people just great. ;D
Any facilities on Zecevo? Was the only way to get there in your own boat or was there taxis? 🙂
I am really not jealous on the seaplane...I am really and totally not jealous...... ::) :-X
;D
Fantastic read, will have to read again later with some more questions probably. Thanks for going and giving another invaluable perspective.
'I figure life's a gift and I don't intend wasting it. You never know what hand you're gonna get dealt next.' Titanic.'Shine as a glow worm if you cannot as a star.' Thomas Andrews, shipbuilder.
'We'll miss the matinee but we'll make the night show.' The Greatest Show on Earth 1952.
Thanks for the praise 🙂
No facilities on Zecevo , just a ruined hut maybe once a summer snack bar. No sign of a taxi service, but a possibility from Vrboska as it's not far. Kayaks from 150 Kuna a day - it's not very far to paddle.
Not many English encountered, mostly Italian / Austrian / German / Slovenian. I did spot Adrian Chiles in Vrboska though. He has a Croatian mother and Croatian girlfriend. I was chuffed, as it's always Emma who spots celebrities and I never know who they are. :laugh:
I'll link to some pics later when I can be bothered to upload and edit them.....
Adrain Chiles eh...makes you wonder... 🙂
Think in bygone days of yore Zecevo was a full blown service set up, but no more. Bulk of nationalities we have encountered are those you mention, along with a lot of Australians.
So would you go back to Hvar? I think it is just about at the top of my favourite places, though you won't go far wrong wherever you go. I really love the islands so much.
'I figure life's a gift and I don't intend wasting it. You never know what hand you're gonna get dealt next.' Titanic.'Shine as a glow worm if you cannot as a star.' Thomas Andrews, shipbuilder.
'We'll miss the matinee but we'll make the night show.' The Greatest Show on Earth 1952.
Would I go back ?
Sure would, although not sure if I preferred Hvar to Vis . And I'd take a hammock and sleep under the stars.
It's difficult because all the islands we've been to have their points...some have better towns, some have better beaches....Hvar manages to combine both though maybe Losinj if we can get to it will compete. Fell in love wth Vis as well. Too many islands, too little time.
How was the weather for you? That was what conspired against us, as was planning to get a car on the last few days and revisit Jelsa and the camp but it was pointless in the rain. At least it was at the end of the holiday so it wasn't too bad. I'd have been more peed off had it been rainy in Vis. According to Trip Ad it's not been a reliable summer there on the whole, so I hope you had a good fortnight, it looks like it on your pics.
Sorry Jerolim didn't work out but sounds like it was still a brilliant time.
'I figure life's a gift and I don't intend wasting it. You never know what hand you're gonna get dealt next.' Titanic.'Shine as a glow worm if you cannot as a star.' Thomas Andrews, shipbuilder.
'We'll miss the matinee but we'll make the night show.' The Greatest Show on Earth 1952.
Weather was subtle, different every day but not in a big way. Clear skies and a mirror-like sea at 7am ( best time of day !) turned to cloud by 10am, only to clear by mid-afternoon. One early morning it was too choppy so swim off any rocks, by noon it was flat calm again ! Generally bands of thin high cloud. 27 degrees most days and quite humid. Electrical storms over the mainland and night. Last two days the wind changed, it became very clear, 31 degrees and a much drier feel to the air.
A huge thunderstorm one evening , all over in an hour and great to watch from the balcony.
The harbour front had unfinished work in progress, due to the wet spell in June. Next time you go, they may well have upgraded the main road round Jelsa and hopefully put the finishing touches to the quay.
Our host had a property at Sucuraj and said she liked it out there. Quite a long way from anywhere else.
Lastovo also on my wish list, I like out of the way places 🙂
Not as good a set of pics as Vis last year due to camera malfunction.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/75028589@N00/sets/72157647655623895/
That's a pity jonny, but seeing photos of Croatia is always a pleasure. I assume the town ones are Jelsa. It is one regret we didn't get there as the weather intervened. It looks adorable.
'I figure life's a gift and I don't intend wasting it. You never know what hand you're gonna get dealt next.' Titanic.'Shine as a glow worm if you cannot as a star.' Thomas Andrews, shipbuilder.
'We'll miss the matinee but we'll make the night show.' The Greatest Show on Earth 1952.
Still a stunning set of photos